Published on Aug, 2024
I was fortunate enough to be in Thailand for a work trip, and thought I would take the chance to tick something off the bucket list - Maya Bay.
At first I explored day trips from Phuket, but dismissed this due to the crowds and the rush. I then thought about staying on Koh Phi Phi and getting the early long-tail boat out to Phi Phi Leh first thing in the morning. By chance, I stumbled across the Maya Bay Sleepaboard and decided this was just what I was looking for.
We arrived in Phuket the day before, and spend the night exploring Phuket Town (some of our group stayed out a little later than they should, but hey, they still made the speedboat in the morning). We took the 11am speedboat across to Phi Phi Don and arrived with time to take a walk around the island, grab a coffee and an ice cream before making our way to the Maya Bay Sleepaboard office where we met the rest of the guests - some who were staying overnight and others that would return to the island later.
After a while we made our way to the boat - first impressions: she (it) was beautiful! We met our host Liam, were set free to explore the boat, and we set off for Koh Phi Phi Leh.
It wasn't long before the drinks started flowing (100THB cocktails... lookout) and the fun began. We anchored just off of Viking Cave and a few of us took the water to snorkel, the more adventurous jumped off the roof of the boat.
Then the moment I had waited for - with everyone back on board we continued onwards towards Maya Bay. The hoards of daytrippers were all lining up to get back on their boats just as we arrived, which pretty much meant we had the place to ourselves. I had played out this moment in my mind a million times, running onto the sand and taking in those towering limestone cliffs - the same as Leo did 24 years earler, and wow - it did not disappoint. I don't really have words for how beautiful it looked in real life, and that first glance is one that I will never forget.
After around 45 minutes it was time to leave Maya Bay, so we returned to the boat, which putted around to the entrance to the bay. A few of us swam, a few of us jumped again, and I jumped on a kayak with a new-found friend from Brazil. The sun setting in the one direction, Maya Bay in the other - again, I have no words for this.
Shortly after sundown dinner was served, a variety of Thai curries including a vego one for me (appreciated). The drinks continued, and the music went on. A pirate party ship parked nearby for sunset headed back to Koh Phi Phi Don and we had the place to ourselves (other than a few private yachts anchored around the place).
More drinks... that $4 cocktail is too hard to turn down!
Once it was sufficiently dark, we were called down to the bottom floor where we all put on lifejackets (backwards and around your legs, like a nappy) and jumped into the pitch black water, lit only by the lights from the boat. Once we were all in, the boat lights went out and we were in total darkness... almost. Placing your head underwater, you could see little flashes of light where you moved your hands - almost like interactive stars. It wasn't the bright blue-green wave of light that I saw in the movie, but it was still pretty cool - especially after a few* drinks.
After the plankton session, those that were not sleeping on board said แล้วพบกันใหม่ and the rest of us continued on with those pesky 100 baht cocktails. We took the dinghy to a small beach inside the bay (but outside the exclusion zone) and parked on the shore where we had some good chats and some amazing stargazing. We then jumped back in the dinghy (narrowly avoiding a seasnake that slithered past a few legs) and went back to the mothership.
The night gets a little blurry for me from there, but the next fully coherant part is me waking up on the top deck, lit only by moonlight. I had taken myself to bed, but forgot the sleeping bag (a thin one, just to keep the windchill off). A quick walk downstairs to grab one, then back up to bed. I remember seeing the moon just creeping over the towering cliffs above, I remember the gentle rocking of the boat, I remember smiling and then I was out again.
I woke up to sunlight creeping across the sky from behind the bay, and along with the rest of the guests, we slowly nursed our sorry heads back to reality with a strong coffee and some breakfast. The boat kicked back to life and we were heading back to the pontoon to enter Maya Bay - which again we would have to ourselves.
It looked different in the morning, the tide was out, there were no footprints - but most importantly the sun lit it up in a completely different way. It was peaceful. Enormous sea eagles soared over the cliffs, the gentle waves rolled in, and if you looked carefully you could see juvenile black tip reef sharks swimming in the shallows. This was a more sirene take on the beach, and I am so thankful that I got to experience this place in two different lights.
It was back to the boat for the final cruise to Koh Phi Phi Don, with one final stop outside Monkey Beach. We anchored just off shore, a few swam the hangover away, I again decided to take the kayak with a few others. We paddled close to shore but the monkeys were well and truly resting (the tourists also weren't there to torment just yet). Back on board, it was time to go back to the island.
The group caught up for one last coffee, exchanged details and said our goodbyes before we jumped back on a speedboat for Phuket.
For anyone thinking of doing this tour, DO! I cannot speak highly enough of the crew, the hosts, even the yoga mattress beds were fine. If I am lucky enough to be back in Thailand, I will 100% do it again.
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